Well, you do have to trim the fret to width as well but that's easy. The zero fret sets the string height perfectly (you get a few frets to choose from in the kit) and then all you have to do is adjust the width of the slots. A total breeze to install and more effective in every way than a conventional nut. Well, it's amazing and I want to put one on every guitar now. I recut the stock nut pretty well but went a little too deep on the G string and decided to use the opportunity to try the Zero Glide conversion nut I've been interested in for a while. If were doing this again, I would use the ZeroGlide kit, select the size of fret wire that suits and then order that size in stainless steel from StewMac.I recently redid a Strat and stepped up to some 11s. It was a fair bit of work to shape the nut and ss wire that I had but hey, isn't that part of the fun? If were doing this again, I would use the ZeroGlide kit, select the size of fret wire that suits and then order that size in stainless steel from StewMac. The only drawback I see is the possible pinging mentioned above.
You will end up with a bit brighter sound as now all of the stings are fretted. So to help with your question, I like the zero fret as it pretty much takes the nut out of the equation as far as tuning stability and Bigsby use goes. The 3 stainless ones from StewMac are all the same size so I picked the biggest and shaped it down to where I like it. The advantage of the kit is that it comes with 3 frets of different sizes and you pick the one that suits. So I didn't use the zero glide nut but used a bone nut blank that I had and shaped it to fit. People say that the wire that constantly contacts the string will wear faster that the other frets and develop grooves that can cause pinging(if that's the right word) when bending. One of the drawbacks of the Zero Glide kit is it doesn't come with ss frets.
I wanted to use a stainless steel fret (StewMac.3 of one size).
0 kommentar(er)
